Rolling Round Richmond: The Great Lulu Loop — Post 2 of 5

I was touring the perimeter of Lulu Island, aka the City of Richmond, in a counter-clockwise direction and, late in the afternoon of a sun-kissed day, had reached the easternmost point. With a pleasant feeling of fatigue I turned westward along the northern edge of the island. Residences and light industry changed briefly to major roads and big box-stores and then back to residences. I detoured to seek out Paulo`s Pizzeria, the easternmost restaurant in Richmond. Starved, I wolfed down a House Special pizza. Delicious!

Refreshed, I headed toward the sinking sun in a rural landscape along River Road, which was narrow, gently winding and seemed endlessly long to my tired body. A log boom about 600 metres long snaked upriver towed by three tugs. More logs were anchored all along the shoreline.

Much of my enjoyment, I realized, was because I had never cycled these paths and roads before. I felt like an explorer, with a sense of exhilaration, anticipation.

Twice, bike racers, dressed in colourful, sleek garb, flew past making me look like a doddering slowpoke. But I didn’t care; I was enjoying myself immensely. Finally, I entered an urban area, passed under the Knight Street Bridge, cycled along some streets and dismounted at the Accent Inn, which features a Bike Love program, complete with washing and tune-up area.

After a shower and brief rest, I place my weary butt back in the saddle and pedalled to the International Summer Night Market. What a vibrant place! Over 60 vendors offered a wide variety of mostly Asian food including hurricane fries, squid jerky and fish balls. I munched a waffle-on-a-stick while mingling with the happy throngs. A continuous stage show featured local young people hip-hop dancing and singing. Vendors sold crafts, mobile phone covers, jewellery and assorted odds and ends, all at cut-rate prices. As dusk crept over the market, I headed to a well-earned sleep.

Next morning, I gently rubbed my sore behind, mounted up and headed north to rejoin the river-side path. I rolled along watching sleek Canada Line trains cross a bridge, log booms in the river and beautiful purple loosestrife and other wildflowers along the shore. Ah, the lazy dog-days of summer. I briefly joined two young ladies picking the first blackberries of the season. Yumm!

The path ended and I followed streets through an industrial area to the River Rock Casino. I stepped into the main lobby, which towered elegantly over me. Feeling out of place in my scruffy biking gear, I mumbled an apology to a statue of a Chinese man and departed.

I detoured inland a few blocks to explore the Golden Village, an area that feels like the Orient for Richmond has an enormous Chinese population. I entered the Yao Feng shopping centre and the Osaka Supermarket where I was almost the only non-Chinese shopper. The store had a Dim Sum bar and the shelves were stocked with unusual Asian foods. Next I cycled along Alexandra Road with more than 200, mostly Asian, restaurants in a few blocks. Alas, it was too early for lunch.

Need to Know

International Night Market - www.summernightmarket.com

Accent Inn - www.accentinns.com/vancouver-airport

River Rock Casino & Hotel - www.riverrock.com

More Info - www.tourismrichmond.com

Rolling Round Richmond: The Great Lulu Loop — Post 1 of 5

Afflicted by islomania (an unswerving love of islands), I was delighted to learn the city of Richmond lies primarily on Lulu Island, which is shaped like a whale, swimming west in the delta of the Fraser River. I immediately made plans to bicycle around Lulu’s perimeter, rolling along at my own pace, the wind and sun in my face.

Richmond has much to offer, so I planned a three-day, 85-km counter-clockwise tour of the island. My goal — other than sheer enjoyment — was to see if the circumnavigation of Lulu would make a good stand-alone tour, through which visitors could experience Richmond. The answer is a resounding ‘yes.’ The tour was so action-packed and rewarding that I need five posts to give it proper credit.

I set out on a sun-kissed day from the junction of Steveston Highway and No. 6 Road, on the southern underbelly of the whale. I headed north as the shoreline to the east was blocked. (Hopefully, this will be fixed in the future.) No. 6 Road is delightfully rural. Numerous blueberry stands and U-pick farms tempted me. The air was fresh, with an occasional earthy waft of manure.

I turned east on Westminster Highway, following a paved bike lane, passing cornfields and greenhouses. Soon I rolled into Lulu Winery, where Kathryn led me on a tour and explained that Lulu is BC’s fifth largest winery. Sipping a limited-production Meritage, I concluded Lulu makes darn good wine! After an icewine, their signature wine, I wobbled off.

Within minutes I arrived at an ornate, exotic building, a Sikh temple, the Nanaksar Gurdwara Gurusikh Temple, which seemed to have been transplanted straight from India. Many men wore turbans and many women wore saris. I entered the main worship area, first covering my head with a scarf and removing my shoes. Everyone sat on the floor, men to the right, women to the left. Three men beat drums and chanted. A large man stood behind the altar, frequently waving a large whisk, as though chasing away flies or perhaps demons?

Soon I was outside again, blinking in the brightness. Cycling onward, I promised myself to return and visit the rest of the 20 temples, mosques and churches on the nearby “Highway to Heaven,” the most concentrated and diverse religious area in Canada.

Turning south at No. 9 Road and onto the path along the Fraser River, the mood changed from rural to nautical. I rolled past boat works, marinas and houseboats as well as some light industry, commerce and residences. The varied character of Richmond was revealing itself.

Rolling along, I passed under the Alex Fraser Bridge, past a residential development and reached the very easternmost tip of Lulu Island. A gazebo-style sitting area offered a resting spot with views onto tugboats, pleasure boats and high-rise condos across the water.

Need to Know
Lulu Winery - www.luluwinery.com
Sikh Temple - www.worldgurudwara.com/V4/402078.asp
More Info - www.tourismrichmond.com

Trails of 1885 — Immersed in History

Pointing to bullet holes in the wall of the rectory, the guide said, “These were made by a Gatling gun. The government forces also used cannons and cavalry.” I gulped as I envisioned the hopeless position of the Métis. I was at, Saskatchewan, a key battlefield in the Rebellion of 1885, when government troops quashed an uprising by Métis and Natives. The only armed conflict in Canada since confederacy, most of the battles raged in Saskatchewan.  The roots of the conflict, however, lay in Manitoba, and some clashes spilled into Alberta.

To commemorate the rebellion and its impact on a young nation, an ambitious project, the Trails of 1885, is being launched, which, once complete will be of national significance. The Trails will span three provinces and consist of more than 20 sites that played significant roles in the rebellion. Visitors will be able to drive all or parts of the Trail, which approximately follows the Carlton Trail, along which Red River wagons rumbled in the 1800s between Fort Garry (Winnipeg) and Fort Edmonton.

With many sites lying along the South Saskatchewan River, north of Saskatoon, a delightful way to gain insight into this rebellion is by a one-day canoe tour, the River Trails of 1885. We paddled 23 kilometres, visiting Fish Creek battlefield, Middleton’s camp, Petite Ville, Gabriel’s Crossing and the village (now abandoned) and battlefield of Batoche. Pelicans, wildflowers and Saskatoon berries now thrive where, in 1885, gunsmoke and bitterness prevailed. At the end, I was bushed, but much more knowledgeable about Saskatchewan’s early history.

Next day, I explored the Trails further, this time by car. I started at the Duck Lake Museum, which shows how the pioneers lived in those turbulent times. Accompanied by Céline, the museum curator with Métis roots, I drove to the Duck Lake battlefield, where a few lonely cairns marked the place where men fought and died.

A long plume of dust trailed behind us, as we headed west, passing yellow fields of canola dotted with dark sloughs. Fort Carlton was wonderful. A Hudson Bay trading post, the re-constructed fortification houses buffalo skins and many furs that were soft and silky to the touch. I could imagine Natives trading pelts for modern goods with canny Scotsmen.

The final stop was the Lady of Lourdes at St. Laurent. There has been an annual pilgrimage to the shrine for 134 continuous years. The Métis flag flapped on a rise of land, marking a cemetery where four Métis soldiers were buried.

That evening, sipping a beer at the Bessborough, I mused about having travelled pieces of the Trails of 1885 and what I had learned. I quietly planned to drive it from end to end.

If You Go

Trails of 1885:  www.trailsof1885.com

River Trails of 1885:  www.canoeski.com

General Information:  www.sasktourism.com & www.tourismsaskatoon.com

Wanuskewin Heritage Park — A National Treasure

Ah, Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. The words roll around on the tongue. And the city is just as intriguing as it sounds. I stayed at the Bessborough, aka the Castle, and loved the grand architecture of a bygone era, complete with turrets, gargoyles and grotesques.

Even better was the glorious sunshine as I traveled a short five kilometers north to the Wanuskewin Heritage Park, where I climbed into a trench marked by a grid of string and red tape. No ordinary hole in the ground, this is part of Canada’s longest continuously operating archaeological dig. Ernie Walker, an internationally acclaimed archaeologist, waved a stained cowboy hat and said, “This is a research project gone wild. It’s a treasure trove of Native culture and history.” Over three decades the site has unearthed a wealth of Native history dating back 6,000 years — twice the age of King Tut’s tomb — including tipi rings, camp sites, two buffalo jumps, a medicine wheel and a buffalo rubbing stone. The archaeological work has revealed so much about Northern Plains people that it led to the creation of the park, complete with visitors center and interpretive trails. The Park was designated a national heritage site in 1986, and is currently undergoing major expansion

with the goal of becoming a world heritage site. “Can you imagine,” Walker enthused, “we’ll have live buffalo in an urban site.

Later, I watched Julian Kakum, a Plains Cree dressed in full regalia, perform several traditional dances. The bells on his regalia clinked, drums beat rhythmically and guttural singing sounded. He wore a full feathered head-dress, a bright yellow shield with red bear-paw prints and carried a stick topped with eagles talons. Later, I spoke with Kakum and learened that the park, which is considered sacred ground, has become an important focal point for regional Natives. Pow wows, horse ceremonies, sweat ceremonies, a Cree wedding and art festivals are held here. Furthermore, the Park has become a showcase for teaching non-aboriginals about Native culture offering dance performances, craft classes, tipi sleepovers, Native cuisine, classes on Indian culture and much more.
 

I was learning that Wanuskewin Heritage Park is one of the most important archaeological and Native centers in North America, and an under-appreciated gem of Saskatchewan.

Later I strolled along an interpretive trail and came upon the buffalo rubbing rock. I couldn’t resist. “Ah, that feels sooo good.”

If You Go

Delta Bessborough Hotel: www.deltahotels.com/Hotels/Delta-Bessborough

Wanuskewin Heritage Park: www.wanuskewin.com

Tourism Information: www.tourismsaskatoon.com

Where Eccentrics Abound: 3 of 3

Crazy, odd-ball characters are drawn to Squamish like sailers to a bordello. My three-day stay was brightened by encounters with the most unusual and delightful types. There was Crosby Johnston, a mountain guide, who climbs with his dog Suzie on his back. John Furneaux, who has scaled Mount Everest three times, hitchhiked from Newfoundland to Squamish at age 15 and then lived in caves, storage containers, cars and tents while training to become a mountain guide. (These two are described two posts ago.)

I bumped into Hevy, a local eccentric and a lifelong climber, as he was cycling to the local café. He was easily recognizable by his pink ponytail. He explained how he introduced slacklining, like walking a tightrope, to Squamish and every year hosts a slackline festival for this burgeoning sport.

But one character stood out above the rest: internationally renowned extreme sportsman, Tim Emmett. A formidable athlete, he is a daredevil

climber, BASE jumper, wing-suit flyer and ice climber. Oh, and he also excels at solo deep diving, surfing, kite boarding and much more. Over dinner, he bubbled with enthusiasm as he explained why Squamish is the world’s best place to live. “The Chief and mountains are terrific and I can pursue all my favourite activities here.” He avoided direct answers but the rumour mill says he’s  jumped off the Chief with his wingsuit and a parachute … several times. My jaw dropped as he described his next project: to paddleboard down the Little Nahani River in the Northwest Territories. One section consists of a narrow 18-km canyon with grade 3-4 rapids. En route he plans to climb and BASE jump from the Vampire Spires and the Cirque of Unclimbables. When asked about his training, he smiled and responded, “I went paddleboarding for the first time yesterday.”

I heard about Will Standhope, a young star climber who is so talented — and confident — that he often climbs solo. A climbing party was scaling a difficult wall using the usual ropes and protective devices when Standhope casually climbed past them without any rope, harness or protection. The climbers just about fell off in astonishment.

Jim Sinclair is a Squamish legend who put up many first routes on the Chief. Two years ago, at age 78, he suffered a heart attack while climbing and had to be rescued. Unperturbed, he continues to climb today.

Squamish is one crazy place. I love it!

Great Places to Nosh in Squamish
Pepe and Gringo's
Watershed  Grill
Howe Sound Inn & Brewing Company: www.howesound.com

Hiking the Chief: 2 of 3

I was a man on a mission. With the sun glistening from a cloudless sky, conditions were perfect to tackle the famous Stawamus Chief, which towers over the town of Squamish, and offers one of the most popular — and strenuous — hikes in BC.

To warm up, I visited neighbouring Shannon Falls, the third tallest in BC. Rounding a bend, a view of the entire 335-m waterfall appeared with massive cascades of water tumbling down the cliff. The viewing area reverberated from the immense power of the seething water and an enormous roar rolled over the forest. I felt very small.

Next, the Chief. Within minutes, I was soaked in sweat. It was hard work. The path seemed almost vertical. Lactic acid bubbled in my thighs and my boots felt like anvils. I settled into a slow, rhythmic pace and after a while, surprise, I discovered my aging body was adjusting. With gasping breath I began to enjoy the primordial west-coast rain forest as I headed for the second of three peaks. Rough-hewn granite steps and wooden stairs led endlessly higher, past cliffs and boulders and gullies, all immersed in towering cedars and pines. Here and there, roots lay ominously on the path like tangles of snakes. Whenever the path approached a stream, an urgent roar filled the air. Frequently, I passed groups heading downhill.

At one spot, a giant isolated boulder perched in a clearing with magnificent views onto snow-capped mountains. I chatted with a couple from Switzerland. “The mountains here are so much more rugged and wild than back home,” they enthused. A rocky gully led to the final approach. My legs were like mush. On a series of steep pitches my fingers clutched and strained on the fixed, metal chains.

Finally, I was at the top and my aching thighs were instantly forgotten. In the clear azure sky I could see forever. Log booms floated in the estuary far below. Tiny people perched on peak one. Squamish was laid out in geometric precision and grand, towering mountains swept the northern horizon. The hard slog was well rewarded.

I descended on protesting legs, and soon was ensconced in the comfort of the Howe Sound Brew Pub. We recounted adventures while sampling MegaDestroyer Licorice Stout (10% alcohol!), Wee Beastie Scotch Ale and Devils Elbow IPA. Great names, great beer and a great day!

Wanna Hike the Chief?

- Hiking info:  www.vancouvertrails.com/trails/stawamus-chief

- Howe Sound Inn & Brewing Company:  www.howesound.com

- More Info: www.tourismsquamish.com

High on the Mighty Chief: 1 of 3

The Chief, reputedly the second largest hunk of granite on the planet, stares down on the town of Squamish with a continual, hulking presence like a giant powerful god. In worshipful obeisance, townspeople and visitors clamber over this immense rock, striving to reach the Nirvana of its three peaks. Many hike the trails to the top, but the truly faithful take ropes and assail the vertical front walls. Rock climbing has become an obsession in Squamish. And the mighty Chief offers one of the best challenges in the world.

Checking into the Howe Sound Brewery and Inn, a hangout for local climbers, I quickly fell under the spell of the Chief. John Furneaux, one of Canada’s top mountain guides, who has scaled Mount Everest three times, explained how the magic captured him. “I grew up in Newfoundland, but from the age of 12 the Chief and surrounding mountains called to me. At 15, I hitchhiked across the country and then spent five years becoming a guide. It’s the best thing I could ever have done. I love this life.” As we scrambled over the rough terrain at the base of the Chief, John pointed out various routes. We watched climbers like ants hanging precariously high on the sheer walls.

Next morning I went for a climb with a friendly mutt named Suzie. We both clambered into harnesses and roped up at Smoke Bluffs in a Squamish suburb under the watchful eye of Crosby Johnston of Altus Mountain Guides. Without hesitation, Suzie jumped onto Crosby’s back, who then gracefully ascended up a near-vertical cliff called Neat and Cool. A total novice, I followed with painstaking ineptitude, jamming my fingers into cracks, scraping my knees and clinging desperately to anything resembling a hold. But I made it. What a high! I was a convert!
The popularity of climbing was demonstrated by six girls, one only 10 years old, from the

Rock Wall Climbing Gym in Vancouver. They hiked past carrying ropes and helmets, resolutely eyeing the higher pitches.

Matt Lucas, a powerfully built man in his thirties, has been key to establishing a climbing gym co-operative in Squamish and also runs a tea shop (his favourite tea: single-estate Assam). Matt explained that bouldering has become immensely popular in the past decade. “It requires less equipment than climbing and boulders abound at the base of the Chief. I love the fun and the comradery.”

Later at the pub, I sipped a Devils Elbow IPA, swapped yarns and couldn’t wait to get roped up again.
















Wanna Get Roped Up?
- Meet John Furneaux: canadianmountainguide.com
- Howe Sound Inn & Brewing Company: www.howesound.com
- Altus Mountain Guides: altusmountainguides.com
- More Info: www.tourismsquamish.com