The Welsh Coastal Trail – A National Treasure

A few days after a proud, celebratory Canada Day, I think back on the hiking trail that circles the entire country of Wales, and which I was able to happily sample. Much of the trail lies along an extraordinary coastline, consisting of bays, headlands and estuaries sculpted into rugged cliffs. Now and again the trail passes through villages and towns visiting ancient churches, pubs and harbours guarded by looming, crenellated castles. The coastal path is 1,400 km (870 miles) long, well maintained and accessible to all.

When I stayed in St. David’s at the southwest tip of Wales, I hiked to the trail along grassy, flower-blessed fields lined with hedges and walls lush with growth. Part of the Pembrokeshire National Park, the coast is wild and rugged. Waves crashed onto the rocks far below forming caves and stacks. Two hikers were silhouetted against the distant sky. I walked alone and pensive along the twisting trail, climbing stiles and enjoying the wonderful feeling of being part of a grander scheme.

Next day I hiked northward until I reached the village of Porthgain. The ruins of a castle, which once guarded a thriving port that now has passed into quieter times, rested on one side of the harbour. On the other side was my goal, the Sloop Hotel. Soon I was inside, nursing a foaming pint of best bitter.

I marvelled at the intelligence that has created the Wales-encircling trail, a national treasure enjoyed

by everyone. I lamented that in Canada, private ownership trumps the common good. Even the Bruce Trail, the longest hiking trail in the country, is broken in many places by objecting landowners. And the thought of a national hiking trail that follows, unbroken, a major fraction of the coastline is laughable. It’s time for our politicians to take a hike.

And if you want to extend your enjoyment of the magical Welsh coastline try coasteering, invented at St. David’s, Wales. You squeeze into a wetsuit, don

a helmet and bob in the swell among rocks, seaweed and seals. There’s a primal feel to floating up and down with the heartbeat of the sea.

If You Go, You Gotta Know

www.walescoastpath.gov.uk

Coasteering: www.coasteering.com

In St. Andrews, stay at: www.warpoolcourthotel.com

Welsh Castles and Other Fine Rock Piles

In Wales road signs are bilingual and locals – even many young people - speak Welsh, an ancient Celtic language. Reminders that this is an old, old land are everywhere. I visited Pentre Ifan, a 5,500 year old

megalith (like Stonehenge), closed my eyes and pressed my hands against a giant boulder. Spirits soared and whispered in the wind, the voices of those buried here long ago.

Other monuments to ancient culture – castles – are found around every corner for there are an astonishing 641 in Wales. These old walls, where battles raged to preserve language and culture, come in many shapes and forms. Some of my favourites are pictured here. Caerphilly, surrounded by a vast moat, is the largest in the country, second in size only to Windsor in the UK, and home to the ghostess called the Green Lady. You can walk through the battlements, imagining the sieges, jousts, music and voices that echoed there. Laugharne anchors the town of

the same name. At one time, Dylan Thomas worked in one of the turrets. In Brecon, the old fortifications have been incorporated into the more modern (1836) Brecon Castle Hotel. And, of course, there is Cardiff Castle, with its stolid walls and colourful clock-tower set right in the heart of the city. It dates to Roman times and includes lavish apartments and an interior Norman keep.

There are many, many more castles. If the old walls could speak, they would tell wondrous tales of haunting beauty, as can only be told in the lilting Welsh language.

If You Go, You Gotta Know

Wales Information: www.americas.visitwales.com