I faced a challenge: to explore Santiago, the capital of the
6,000-kilometre-long shoestring of Chile, in only 24 hours.
My travel group raced up San Cristobal Hill to the gleaming
white statue of the Virgin, a focal point of the city. Surrounded by parkland,
the site is popular, and I loved listening to rolling Rs and sibilant S sounds
of Spanish. Panoramic views of the city and
Andes foothills lay before us with the 64-storey Costanera Centre skyscraper—the continent’s tallest edifice—sticking up like a
sore thumb. A slight haze hung over the valley, for Santiago is known for smog.
We lunched at an outdoor patio in the fashionable Lastarria
district. Platters of ceviche, fried Conger eel, and pulmay, a stew of mussels,
pork, potato and lamb were accompanied by fine Chilean wine. Unusually, the
chairs had clips to prevent purses and backpacks
being snatched.
At Santiago’s historic
centre, the balconies and columns of Spanish
architecture reflected the city’s long history (founded in1542). In the Santiago
de Compostela Cathedral, I gazed at the vast ceiling and ornate design while
enjoying the dark coolness. A short walk led to La Moneda Palace (the
president’s place) fronted by an expansive parade ground and guarded by soldiers
in crisp uniforms, who eyed us suspiciously.
Next was the Central Mercado, one of the world’s best according
to National Geographic. I wandered amongst aromas of
exotic spices, meats and cheeses; in another section a kaleidoscope of colourful woolen scarves and
handicrafts were displayed.
We stopped at the Park
Forestal, one of many green spaces lining the Mapocho River. I strolled along
the tree-lined walkways, admiring the statues donated by other nations to
honour Chile’s 100th anniversary of independence.
From my hotel window, I could see Providencia Avenue below. A
mariachi band blared as businessmen in dark suits and ladies, chic and attractive
with dark, sensuous Spanish features, flowed to and from the subway entrance. I could see why Chile’s economy is considered the
most dynamic in South America.
My best memories are of fine Chilean wine and superb cuisine.
We arrived at W Santiago Hotel’s
Noso Restaurant after 9 pm. Excellent
Sauvignon Blancs and Cabernet Sauvignons flowed during a dinner of salmon
ceviche, pumpkin soup with prawns, and ribs dripping with succulent barbeque
sauce.
After, we headed to Bocanariz, a wine bar in the trendy
Lastarria barrio, which reputedly serves every Chilean wine. While sampling
their best seller, a Pinot Noir Refugio 2012, produced by Montsecano y Copains,
we pondered the places we didn’t have time to visit.
The Casa Blanca Valley wine region, for example, is only 40
minutes away. With about 20 wineries, it produces Chile’s best white wine. You
can sample cool chardonnays beside green vineyards
marching like military platoons up the dry, brown slopes.
We could have visited Valparaiso,
a UNESCO heritage city situated on the coast, a mere 1.5 hour drive away. Famous
for its multi-coloured houses, numerous art galleries and coffee houses, it
enjoys a bohemian, laid-back pace of life.
Leaving, my head was spinning. In
spite of a Herculean effort I had only seen a fraction of the exciting, vibrant
Santiago.
IF YOU GO, YOU GOTTA KNOW
Currency: 1 $ Canadian = 521 Chilean pesos
Electricity: Chile uses 220 Volts. Bring a transformer &
plug adapter.
Chile Information: www.turismochile.travel
Santiago Information: santiagotourist.com
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