Next morning, I set off on the third and final day of
cycling the Lulu Loop. I started by visiting Village Bikes, who had provided my
trusty 18-gear steed. Ray Mystiuk said, “This shop has been a local fixture for
four generations. My grandfather started Steveston’s first barber shop here in
1940. Now my son runs the bike shop.”
Ray, who operates Steveston Water Taxi, and I pedalled to the
wharf, where we boarded his boat. We puttered along the river, passing
Fisherman’s Wharf, an immense tangle of spars and masts. Ray described the
vibrant estuary nature including seals, sea lions, blue herons and sea birds.
“I do water tours, but at-sea memorial services have become my main business.”
Soon after I was cycling along the riverbank through the
Britannia Heritage Shipyard, a National Historic Site, where Steveston’s
history is laid out like a delicious buffet. I meandered amongst the restored
buildings where boat yards and living quarters once thrived.
I reached London Farm with my stomach growling. Jenny, a
delightful lady, showed me the 1880 heritage building and kindly offered me
Lady London tea (blended on the farm) with a cranberry scone and a lemon
square. I was in heaven, sitting in the cool veranda, enjoying the tea and
listening to Jenny describe the farm’s history.
The sun beat down. My wheels rolled along the path. Fishing
boats chugged past in the river. Then I came upon Finn Slough, probably the
strangest place in Richmond. More than a century ago, Finnish fishermen built
houses on stilts in this swampy river branch. Today, about two dozen people
live here as squatters in derelict homes, paying no tax and enjoying a
hippy-style existence.
Cycling along, I heard the sound of a bongo drum. Soon I was
chatting with Raph, a member of the Latin American band, Rumbacalzada. His
playing and friendliness inspired me as I pushed on.
A little later I met Morgan who was juggling with three
lemons. He was far from joining Cirque de Soleil, but kept trying over and over
again.
The path ended and I turned north on No. 5 Road and then
east on Steveston Highway. Crossing the overpass at Highway 99 caused some
anxious moments, but soon I was at the Holiday Inn Express at Riverport, my
refuge for the night. After a luxurious shower I went to explore this area,
known as the Entertainment District, which includes a mammoth SilverCity cinema
complex, the Six Rinks (yes, with six sheets of ice), a huge Watermania pool,
The Zone bowling lanes and a Go Bananas play centre.
Best of all, I found the Big River Brew Pub, where I
celebrated the end of the Great Lulu Loop. The bicycle, I decided, is the
perfect way to travel. Sipping a Sawmill Alley Brown Ale, I re-lived my
adventure, overwhelmed by the amazing range of sites and people I had
encountered. I had experienced big city bustle and bucolic rural roads. I had
peeked back in history. I had witnessed Richmond’s vast ethnic diversity. The
Richmond Oval was grandiose. Life at Finn Slough was simple. I had eaten Asian
cuisine, enjoyed tea, feasted on seafood and munched on blackberries.
My butt was sore, but I was one happy guy.
Need to Know
Village Bikes - www.village-bikes.ca
Steveston Water Taxi - www.StevestonWaterTaxi.com
Britannia Heritage Shipyard - www.britannia-hss.ca
London Farm - londonheritagefarm.ca
Holiday Inn at Riverport - www.ihg.com/holidayinnexpress/hotels/us/en/richmond/yvrtr/hoteldetail
Big River Brew Pub - www.zbowl.com/Richmond_BR/BrewStory.html
More Info - www.tourismrichmond.com