Ah, Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. The words roll
around on the tongue. And the city is just as intriguing as it sounds. I stayed
at the Bessborough, aka the Castle, and loved the grand architecture of a bygone era,
complete with turrets, gargoyles and grotesques.
Even better was the glorious sunshine as I
traveled a short five kilometers north to the Wanuskewin Heritage Park, where I
climbed into a trench marked by a grid of string and
red tape. No ordinary hole in the ground, this is part of Canada’s
longest continuously operating archaeological dig. Ernie
Walker, an internationally acclaimed archaeologist, waved a stained cowboy hat
and said, “This is a research project gone wild. It’s a treasure trove of
Native culture and history.” Over three decades the site has unearthed
a wealth of Native history dating back 6,000 years — twice
the age of King Tut’s tomb — including
tipi rings, camp sites, two buffalo jumps, a medicine wheel and a buffalo rubbing
stone. The archaeological work has revealed so much about Northern Plains
people that it led to the creation of the park, complete with visitors center
and interpretive trails. The Park was designated a national heritage site in
1986, and is currently undergoing major expansion
with the goal of becoming a
world heritage site. “Can you imagine,” Walker
enthused, “we’ll have live buffalo in an urban site.
Later, I watched
Julian Kakum, a Plains Cree dressed in full regalia, perform several
traditional dances. The bells on his regalia clinked, drums beat rhythmically
and guttural singing sounded. He wore a full feathered head-dress, a bright
yellow shield with red bear-paw prints and carried a stick topped with eagles
talons. Later, I spoke with Kakum and learened that the park, which is
considered sacred ground, has become an important focal point for regional
Natives. Pow wows, horse ceremonies, sweat ceremonies, a Cree wedding and art
festivals are held here. Furthermore, the Park has become a showcase for
teaching non-aboriginals about Native culture offering
dance performances, craft classes, tipi sleepovers, Native cuisine, classes on
Indian culture and much more.
I was learning that Wanuskewin Heritage
Park is one of the most important archaeological and Native centers in North
America, and an under-appreciated gem of Saskatchewan.
Later I strolled along an interpretive
trail and came upon the buffalo rubbing rock. I couldn’t resist. “Ah, that
feels sooo good.”
Delta Bessborough Hotel: www.deltahotels.com/Hotels/Delta-Bessborough
Wanuskewin Heritage Park:
www.wanuskewin.com
Tourism Information:
www.tourismsaskatoon.com
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