Trails of 1885 — Immersed in History

Pointing to bullet holes in the wall of the rectory, the guide said, “These were made by a Gatling gun. The government forces also used cannons and cavalry.” I gulped as I envisioned the hopeless position of the Métis. I was at, Saskatchewan, a key battlefield in the Rebellion of 1885, when government troops quashed an uprising by Métis and Natives. The only armed conflict in Canada since confederacy, most of the battles raged in Saskatchewan.  The roots of the conflict, however, lay in Manitoba, and some clashes spilled into Alberta.

To commemorate the rebellion and its impact on a young nation, an ambitious project, the Trails of 1885, is being launched, which, once complete will be of national significance. The Trails will span three provinces and consist of more than 20 sites that played significant roles in the rebellion. Visitors will be able to drive all or parts of the Trail, which approximately follows the Carlton Trail, along which Red River wagons rumbled in the 1800s between Fort Garry (Winnipeg) and Fort Edmonton.

With many sites lying along the South Saskatchewan River, north of Saskatoon, a delightful way to gain insight into this rebellion is by a one-day canoe tour, the River Trails of 1885. We paddled 23 kilometres, visiting Fish Creek battlefield, Middleton’s camp, Petite Ville, Gabriel’s Crossing and the village (now abandoned) and battlefield of Batoche. Pelicans, wildflowers and Saskatoon berries now thrive where, in 1885, gunsmoke and bitterness prevailed. At the end, I was bushed, but much more knowledgeable about Saskatchewan’s early history.

Next day, I explored the Trails further, this time by car. I started at the Duck Lake Museum, which shows how the pioneers lived in those turbulent times. Accompanied by Céline, the museum curator with Métis roots, I drove to the Duck Lake battlefield, where a few lonely cairns marked the place where men fought and died.

A long plume of dust trailed behind us, as we headed west, passing yellow fields of canola dotted with dark sloughs. Fort Carlton was wonderful. A Hudson Bay trading post, the re-constructed fortification houses buffalo skins and many furs that were soft and silky to the touch. I could imagine Natives trading pelts for modern goods with canny Scotsmen.

The final stop was the Lady of Lourdes at St. Laurent. There has been an annual pilgrimage to the shrine for 134 continuous years. The Métis flag flapped on a rise of land, marking a cemetery where four Métis soldiers were buried.

That evening, sipping a beer at the Bessborough, I mused about having travelled pieces of the Trails of 1885 and what I had learned. I quietly planned to drive it from end to end.

If You Go

Trails of 1885:  www.trailsof1885.com

River Trails of 1885:  www.canoeski.com

General Information:  www.sasktourism.com & www.tourismsaskatoon.com

Wanuskewin Heritage Park — A National Treasure

Ah, Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. The words roll around on the tongue. And the city is just as intriguing as it sounds. I stayed at the Bessborough, aka the Castle, and loved the grand architecture of a bygone era, complete with turrets, gargoyles and grotesques.

Even better was the glorious sunshine as I traveled a short five kilometers north to the Wanuskewin Heritage Park, where I climbed into a trench marked by a grid of string and red tape. No ordinary hole in the ground, this is part of Canada’s longest continuously operating archaeological dig. Ernie Walker, an internationally acclaimed archaeologist, waved a stained cowboy hat and said, “This is a research project gone wild. It’s a treasure trove of Native culture and history.” Over three decades the site has unearthed a wealth of Native history dating back 6,000 years — twice the age of King Tut’s tomb — including tipi rings, camp sites, two buffalo jumps, a medicine wheel and a buffalo rubbing stone. The archaeological work has revealed so much about Northern Plains people that it led to the creation of the park, complete with visitors center and interpretive trails. The Park was designated a national heritage site in 1986, and is currently undergoing major expansion

with the goal of becoming a world heritage site. “Can you imagine,” Walker enthused, “we’ll have live buffalo in an urban site.

Later, I watched Julian Kakum, a Plains Cree dressed in full regalia, perform several traditional dances. The bells on his regalia clinked, drums beat rhythmically and guttural singing sounded. He wore a full feathered head-dress, a bright yellow shield with red bear-paw prints and carried a stick topped with eagles talons. Later, I spoke with Kakum and learened that the park, which is considered sacred ground, has become an important focal point for regional Natives. Pow wows, horse ceremonies, sweat ceremonies, a Cree wedding and art festivals are held here. Furthermore, the Park has become a showcase for teaching non-aboriginals about Native culture offering dance performances, craft classes, tipi sleepovers, Native cuisine, classes on Indian culture and much more.
 

I was learning that Wanuskewin Heritage Park is one of the most important archaeological and Native centers in North America, and an under-appreciated gem of Saskatchewan.

Later I strolled along an interpretive trail and came upon the buffalo rubbing rock. I couldn’t resist. “Ah, that feels sooo good.”

If You Go

Delta Bessborough Hotel: www.deltahotels.com/Hotels/Delta-Bessborough

Wanuskewin Heritage Park: www.wanuskewin.com

Tourism Information: www.tourismsaskatoon.com

Searching for my Sole in Saskatchewan

I slept soundly, the deep silence of Saskatchewan’s boreal forest broken only by the occasional drone of a mosquito approaching an exposed patch of skin. Everything changed on awakening.

The right shoe of my favourite pair of Rockports, which I had left, somewhat muddy, outside my recreational vehicle in a campground just outside Prince Albert National Park, was missing. The campground authorities were notified. A search was conducted. No luck. My remaining left shoe, size eleven, is now an orphan.

Everyone has a theory to explain one of greatest mysteries to ever hit Saskatchewan. Several animals are potential culprits: a bear, a fox, a lynx, a porcupine, perhaps even an errant pelican. Conspiracy theories, of course, are popular. A dangerous one-legged felon has recently escaped from a regional prison. UFOs are common here, I learned. But why would aliens want a size-11 right shoe? The Shoesquatch is a popular suspect and BC tourism officials quickly challenged Shoesquatch to a shoedown against Ogopogo. Others feel the incident is related to the shoes (with feet enclosed) washing up along the BC coast. I double locked the RV door next night — with the left shoe inside.

Worried that Saskatchewan will gain a reputation as the Bermuda Triangle of Shoes, tourism officials have posted a reward of $5,000 for the return of the missing shoe. For real! Search parties are being mounted even as we speak.

My wife, Allyson, is quite frugal and told me not to throw out the remaining left shoe. When questioned, she explained I might lose a foot or leg in the future and would then only need one shoe. My travel companions quickly pointed out that with my luck, I would probably lose the wrong foot. I look forward to calling Allyson: “I’ve got good news and bad news, dear.”

Should anyone be travelling to Saskatchewan soon, please contact me first. I’m bringing out a great line of shoe locks and shoes with inbuilt GPS-chips. Perhaps you might like the T-shirt?