At our next stop, the Võru Museum, we were
the only visitors, a reminder of how peaceful the tourist path is away from
Tallinn. The museum was grim, mostly about wars. I was drawn to a bunker where
the Forest Brothers lived while they fought guerrilla
warfare against the
Russians following World War II.
We often visited cemeteries to enjoy the
greenery and listen to the stories the stones tell. At Elva, I visited the
graves of my maternal grandparents wishing we had gotten to know each other.
Then we were in Tartu (population 105,000)
and could feel the vibrancy of a university city. We set off on a walking tour.
At the main square, a regal town hall loomed over a cobble-stoned square lined
by outdoor cafes. Statues proliferated and we particularly enjoyed the bronze
Oscar Wilde and Eduard Vilde casually chatting. Then we were on Tartu
University (established 1632) campus, which is heavily treed. Especially
impressive was the History Museum located in the majestic ruins of a cathedral
dating to the 13th century. Then we came upon the main university
building with its dominating six tall Doric columns. Soon we were in 14th
century St. John’s Church with its almost 1000 terra cotta figurines. An
orchestra was rehearsing, a reminder that Estonians love music and that the
peaceful Singing Revolution helped the country gain its freedom.
After two wonderful days we departed Tartu.
At a tiny village we bumped aboard an old one-car barge and were hand-winched
across the Ema River. Estonia is a delightful mixture of old and new!
Driving north along the shore of Peipsi
Lake, we passed through small villages where old ladies sold onions and smoked
fish by the roadside.
We arrived in Narva (95% Russian
population) under dark ominous skies. The border crossing to Russia had long
line-ups and menacing barbed wire. Narva castle is well preserved and,
surprise, only a short cannon-shot across Narva River in Russia is the almost
identical Ivanogrod Fortress.
I photographed Lenin’s statue in an out-of-the-way corner of the castle grounds and learned that strong Russian pressure had prevented its consignment to the scrap heap after independence. The large Russian population in Estonia (25%) is certainly awkward. We were happy to head westward.
In Rakvere, the Aqva Spa Hotel included an extensive indoor water park, saunas, a spa and lap-pools, which were packed. I entered the sauna, where I sweated in the semi-dark, enjoying Estonian voices and the slapping of birch twigs against skin. In the morning we visited Rakvere Castle and then drove westward.
Estonia is dotted with hundreds of manor
houses, but none is finer than the baroque Palmse Manor in Lahemaa National
Park. We wandered around its extensive, immaculate gardens, marvelling at the
rich elegance, a contrast to the surrounding rural area.
A short drive took us to pretty Käsmu on
the Gulf of Finland, which has many trendy summer homes. I walked along the
shore, thinking of my mother who escaped, pregnant with me, from a cold shore
like this in a crowded small boat as the Russians invaded.
That evening, I nursed a dark beer in
Tallinn. I had learned that Estonia is about history and people. It was
heart-warming to meet relatives, and satisfying to see Estonia blossoming after
50 years of repression. I regretted not having visited earlier.
If You Go
Aqva Spa Hotel, Rakvere: www.aqvahotels.ee/en
Hotel London, Tartu: www.londonhotel.ee/en
General information: www.visitestonia.com/en/
Impressions
of Estonia, useful
book with 124 photos:
www.blurb.ca/bookstore/detail/3850029
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