Although I’d never been to the homeland, I
grew up speaking Estonian. But I was always reticent to visit my homeland.
Finally, I decided to go.
Entering the medieval Old Town, I was
overwhelmed with emotion for Tallinn is one of Europe’s most beautiful capitals
with narrow cobblestone streets, church spires, medieval buildings, thick
battlements and towers.
Over the next two days my dearest, Allyson,
and I
walked and walked, immersing ourselves in the glorious Old Town, which
was established in 1219 by the Danes. The town is surprisingly well preserved
given the wars that Estonia has suffered. At the centre is the town hall
square, which is dominated by a Gothic town hall (1404) and lined with bustling
open-air cafes. Patio umbrellas carried the name Saku (the local beer). Throngs
of tourists milled in the square for Tallinn is a regular stop for cruise
ships.
The Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site,
is actually two towns, each with its own fortifications. The upper one was for
nobles and the lower town for merchants. About 2 kilometres of sturdy stone
walls and 27 towers are still preserved.
The ramparts of upper Town offer wonderful
views onto the rooftops and spires of lower Town. We visited the parliament
buildings, the Russian Orthodox Alexander Nevsky cathedral and Pikk Hermann
tower, which reminded me of the Estonian flag holder in my parents’ home long
ago.
The lower town is full of museums and
churches. I particularly enjoyed the Passage of History where plaques in the
sidewalk outline Estonian history from 1154 to the present.
Next day, our guide pointed to a stately
Gothic house. “That was the former KGB headquarters,” she said. “This street
was the most feared place in the city.” As we were to learn, Russia still casts
a dark shadow over the land.
Our local haunt became the Hell Hunt bar,
on whose window a smiling wolf carries a naked blonde lady.
The beer was
delicious and cheap and Allyson and I usually ordered the house light and dark
beers. Restaurants and bars abounded for Tallinn has a raucous night life.
My cousins, who I met for the first time,
explained that Estonia is a progressive country and has made huge strides since
gaining its freedom in 1991. Skype was invented here; there is almost no
government debt; Estonia is a member of NATO and the Eurozone; and voting is
conducted via Internet. I was proud.
We visited Seaplane Harbour, a brand-new,
must-see maritime museum just outside the Old Town. The main building is an
immense dome, originally built in 1917. Inside, it is surreal and contains a
submarine, the oldest boat in Estonia and much more.
On the fourth day, we rented a car and set
off to circle the country. We were entering terra incognita for tourists rarely
venture outside Tallinn.
Meriton Old Town Hotel: www.meritonhotels.com
General information: http://www.visitestonia.com/en/
Impressions
of Estonia, useful
book with 124 photos:
www.blurb.ca/bookstore/detail/3850029
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